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Posts Tagged ‘oil’

I Love Growing Herbs

Thursday, May 6th, 2010
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I love growing herb plants, they are cheap and easy to grow, they grow well indoors through the winter and I get to eat them. Herb plants grown well in cheap plastic plant containers. I got a stack of them out of the trash dumpster behind my local plant store. A few packets of seeds, some salvaged containers, some dirt and it is amazing how much will grow.

Most herbs are tough wild plants which thrive when pampered by gardeners. Having a few of the basic cooking herbs growing in containers is convenient because they are all a few steps from my kitchen. If I decide I need an herb in the middle of cooking, I cut a little fresh without having to drive to the store. Herbs can be harvested by simply cutting off what you need, I keep a small pair of scissors just for that. Cooking with fresh herbs is much better than the dried stuff they call herbs that come in little plastic containers. The flavor of fresh herbs is better but the potency of dried herbs is about three times that of fresh, so if you are using fresh herbs in a recipe that called for dried herbs, keep this in mind.

Herbs and spices – Culinary herbs are different from spices. For the most part, culinary herbs are fresh or dried leaves. Spices are seeds, roots, fruits, flowers, and bark. Culinary herbs usually have a mild flavor while spices tend to have a stronger, pungent flavor.

Annuals, Biennials and Perennials – Annuals bloom one season, put out a lot of seeds and die, biennial herbs live two seasons, blooming the second season only, perennial herbs bloom each season once established and can be propagated by division or cuttings.

What to grow? – Grow what you like to eat. If you cook a lot, you probably already have some idea what herbs you’d like. I grow some herbs because they are used in cuisines I like to eat. Cilantro for Mexican food, basil and rosemary for Italian.

Lavender, rosemary, bay laurel, marjoram, dill, oregano, sage and thyme are all easy to grow cooking herbs. This will start you out with herbs you can eat. They are all from the mild, dry climate of the Mediterranean and grow well together. They need well draining soil, bright sun, and moderate temperatures. Many of the Mediterranean herbs are very sensitive to soil moisture conditions. Raised beds are sometimes needed to provide the necessary drainage. Oregano, and thyme have tried to take over my garden many times. Now I put them in pots, and sink them into the ground. They grow better this way also because I can use soils that drain better just for them. Some of the best easy-to-grow herbs will take over the garden if you do not watch them.

Every herb garden needs at least five kinds of basil. Basil, is not really a mediterranean herb and needs more water. Parsley, chervil, and mint grow best on soils which retain moisture. Chamomile and mints are always good to have growing for tea. Mints are another plant that are good to grow in pots because once they get going they will quickly overwhelm other plants. Peppermint does not produce seeds and can only be propagated by cuttings.

Mints, oregano, rosemary, thyme, and tarragon, should be purchased as plants or propagated by cuttings. If you are planting herb plants from the garden store, plant them in the same way you would plant any other plant, dig a hole, put the plant in and water it well. The woodier herb plants like rosemary, thyme and oregano are better grown from established plants.

Growing herbs outside – Pick a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. Do not plant where water stands or runs during heavy rains. If you don’t have good drainage raised beds will fix it. Add dead leaves and compost to the soil. If you are starting your plants from seeds, put some dirt in a bucket, add a few packets of seeds and scatter them over the soil and water well. The plants will begin to sprout in about a week.

Dry some of your harvest so you’ll have dried herbs through the winter. You’ll never go back to those sad little plastic containers from the grocery store. The shelf life of many herbs is one to two years as long as they are not exposed to light, heat and air. Leaves keep their flavor best when they are stored whole and crushed just before use. Seeds for cooking should be stored whole and ground up as needed.

Keep them well watered, make sure your soil has drainage, make sure to plant them in a place they will get sun, but not too much, feed them a little and they will pay you back many times over. Never use fertilizer, just good dirt with some mulch from the back yard and some alfalfa pellets or some cow manure. Continue to plant seeds every couple of weeks all season long so you will always have fresh herbs available. Most herbs reach their peak for flavor before flowering, that is the best time to harvest leaves or seeds for storage.

Growing herbs inside – Growing herbs inside requires good drainage, sunlight and water. Put an inch of gravel at the bottom of each pot for drainage. Herbs grow best inside in a location with bright, filtered light. A south or west windowsill provides a good spot for an herb garden. Keep plenty of space between your plants to allow for air circulation, Herbs in smaller containers tend to dry out faster, water more often if needed.

Fertilizing – Too much fertilizer produces poor tasting herbs. Heavy applications of fertilizer, will decrease the concentration of essential oils. Don’t fertilizing your herbs in winter. Most plants, especially the warm-climate ones, are asleep and not growing in winter.

Compost is the best fertilizer around. Just toss a handful or two of it around the base of the plant. Mix in lots of organic matter to the soil like mulched leaves to improve texture and drainage.
Plants do not eat fertilizer, they use photosynthesis to eat light. It is amazing but that is what they do. Giving them too much fertilizer is like taking too many vitamins.

Harvey Robinson
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/i-love-growing-herbs-133091.html

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Bangalore-Treating kitchen waste water for reuse

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Waste water emerging from the kitchen sink has high organic material from the food dishes as well as oil and grease from typical Indian cooking. This water can be treated with a simple oil and grease trap and a planted filter for reuse as garden water. Approximately 30 litres of water per person per day is use up in doing the dishes in a typical Indian home.
The first thing to do is to trap the oil and grease which can be taken out occasionally and put into a compost heap. The food material is also allowed to settle down and separated from the rest of the water. This remaining water is oxygenated using a small aquarium bubbler. This cost Rs 250/- and is obviously a Chinese make. It also consumes less than a half unit of energy every day. About 100 litres to 120 litres of water can be treated and used to water the pots and the garden. If any water is in excess it can be used to recharge the ground through a small recharge well.

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Sueing Your HOA So You Can Install Solar Panels

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009

http://www.solardave.com/index.php/how-to-get-your-solar-panel-design-approved-by-your-hoa-video/
John Forbes: The year before last (2007) Xcel (Energy) had been sending out these mailers with your bill and they were talking about their solar credit program, and I have been really interested in all things solar. I tell people that I had in the 8th grade in 1958 I was standing up in front of the class giving them my science presentation and telling them I wanted to be a solarologist.

My science fair project I had a big solar cooker made out of card board and tin foil. The next year I did one with corala algae and composting that in to methane and generating electricity from that, so I was really interested into it a long long time ago.

The prices were prohibitive and the products really were not available anyway. So I say this an I was really intrigued and the Cary Hayes and REC Solar showed up at Costco. My wife had seen him and and she said he still might be there and I got home from work and Costco was open a little later. And she took me down there and she met him. OK, I gotta do it.

And from then it was September of 2007 and I thought I would just put in my application to the Architectural Committee (Rock Creek HOA) because I had to do that for the yard and the deck and you are supposed get a 45 day turn around. Well when I didn’t get it by October – I went to inquire, I was told you can show up at the next meeting by that time – I check and gave them a little more time back in December or November I think they were skipping December and going in to January so I had to wait even longer. So I got involved, so then I found out that they were not doing anything on my application at all.

They said they couldn’t make a decision because they didn’t have any guidance. They didn’t have any rules drafted and that really made me angry. I wanted them to either up or down yes or no – because if they said not I was going to go off and sue them because under state law (Colorado Solar Access Law) there is no question I would get what I wanted – but I couldn’t sue them (the HOA) or I could not get an injunction until they actually made a decision. Which was driving me crazy!

So finally I talked to my friend Rich and told him we have to do something to make them make a decision. They insisted on drafting this one paragraph about it can’t be more than 4 inches off the roof and then they made the claim that these panels should match your roof color. So I was told they come in gray and brown and red – which is not true! I told them that is a restriction that can not be meet and you will just have to take that out, and I demanded to know what their source of information was – so they gave me a local solar contractor Rich did and he said there is not such thing as red panels!

So I want back and politely inferred that they misunderstood. So they took it out and finally they had the guidance. They were still dragging their feet. Each iteration was another month and another month and finally Rich came in a brought case law in and pressed. And hinted that they will get sued if they don’t make a decision. A week and a half later I got my decision that approved it.

I called up REC Solar and all through this process Cary Hayes was giving me support and technical information he got me and stuff. They came out (REC Solar) got the survey had their plans ready and we thought oh this is going to go through really quickly and went down to the city (Town of Superior) – well the city now…they said the electrical plan we just can’t accept that you have got to have a wet stamp, another electrical has to stamp it like a notary. That would be like getting a wet stamp to wire up your stereo – it was a delaying tacit. Further behind and cost more money because you had to pay the guy.

Eventually it was put in – the whole thing took more than a year. It could have been done in like two months. And what startled me was the people on the Architectural Committee knew nothing about solar and you would think here in Boulder County the stuff has been out there since – well I learned about it in 1958!

So asking questions like what color are the panels – what planet are you on?

So I found that whole thing kind of depressing – I was hoping that other people it would make it easier.

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New Brunswick Botanical Garden: Worm Composting

Sunday, August 16th, 2009

Worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, is a method for recycling food waste into a rich, dark, earth-smelling soil conditioner. This rich fertilizer is excellent for your plants. What a good way to reduce your organic waste and pollution! The Botanical Garden wishes you a great worm composting experience!

For more information, visit the Cogerno web site at: www.cogerno.com

Music by: Bruno Jacques Pelletier
www.brunojacquespelletier.com

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Adding Humanure Compost to A Garden

Sunday, August 16th, 2009

Rather than produce sewage from human excrement, toilets can be designed to collect the excrement to allow for composting. The resultant compost can be used to grow food. This short video clip shows a garden that has used humanure compost as its primary source of fertility for the past 29 continuous years.

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Tierrapath.com WORM COMPOSTING SYSTEM – Naturally compost kitchen scraps

Friday, August 14th, 2009

The Tierrapath.com Worm Composter is a low priced, fun and natural way of composting kitchen/garden scraps. This composting system creates rich soil which can be used for potting plants or growing vegetables. Tierrapath.com can also ship the composter straight to your door. Red wiggler worms (Eisenia fetida) are preferred for most temperate locations, and can also be found on Tierrapath.com

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Ask Torg – How to make a compost toilet

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

Dr. James Torgerson teaches you how to make a compost toilet! empowermentchannel.org

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Worm Compost Bin Outside?

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

I would like to make a worm compost bin, but my parents won’t let me keep it in the house. I know that its okay to keep it outside during the summer, but what about the winter? Would the worms survive?
Also, would rain be an issue?
The reason my parents won’t let me keep it in the house is because we don’t have any room for it and they think it will smell bad. I’ve been trying to tell them that the regular garbage probably smells worse, but they disagree.
I plan on using Red Wigglers.

Vermiculture is a good way to acquire good quality compost. about your question it really depends on the type of earthworms.
Some earthworms spend their whole life close to the ground’s upper layer of soil and leaves. Because these earthworms don’t have a cozy winter shelter, cold temperatures kill them. So to keep their species alive, they lay several eggs in tiny cocoons. The cocoons keep the eggs from freezing or drying out during the winter. The next spring, a whole new group of worms hatches from the eggs.

Other worms, like the night crawlers people use as fish bait, live in two places. They spend time on the surface, but they also can burrow deep into the soil. Some of their tunnels can be as deep as 6 feet or more.

To survive the winter, night crawlers nest in little chambers at the bottom of a deep tunnel. They coil up and cover the insides of the chambers with a slimy mucus to keep moist. (Worms can’t breathe if their skin dries out.)

Night crawlers don’t hibernate, though. Hibernation is when animals, such as bears and groundhogs, go into a really deep, uninterrupted sleep, no matter what. Night crawlers will occasionally come up to the surface during the winter — but only if there’s an unusually long warm spell to bring them out.

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Help! I’m trying to start my own "worm farm" to make composted soil but when I took the lid off the bucket I

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

but when I took the lid off the bucket I noticed fruitflies and MOULD and the soil was really really getting wet. Will this hurt the red wigglers and if I take the lid off will they ESCAPE? Should I just leave them to do their thing? Should I cover the pail with dark cloth instead?
Do the worms create more moisture? ( the initial soil I used was a little damp) and how often should I split the worm population?

You need to look up raising worms. I always thought that you used a two layer. screen bottomed box that the air can get it.. and put shredded paper in it with a little soil. drop you compost from the kitchen in it for them to eat.. if they get to wet they will die and rot. that is where you fruitflies are coming from i would imagine.. the fresh droppings from the worms will go down in to the second tray and drop through into a box underneath. you will have to keep giving them fresh shredded paper and keep them supplied in compost.. to make this work. do not put meat in with it.
Your trays should have a lid to keep the worms in. if the paper drys out get a spray bottle and keep it a little bit damp..
you should have very good compost coming up soon but get them out of that wet bucket or you will lose them all..
just my opinion ..
search the web for raising red worms.
didn’t you get instructions when you got them..?
this is what i would do anyway.. always wanted my own compost makers.
let me know how it works for you?

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is it possible to compost sawdust from a backyard sawmill?

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

I would like to build a drum type composter to utilize the sawdust produced by my small sawmill. Will it work? Would it be possible to compost large amounts?

Hello,
Yes sawdust makes "a" good compost ingredient. (Carbon Element, or "browns", as it is called.)
You will need to add goodly amounts of nitrogen sources, such as "greens", grasses and such.
If no green leafy type offerings are available, I use "blood meal", soybean meal, even a few hand-fulls of fertilizer like, calcium nitrate.
It’s the nitrogen source and moisture that really help breakdown/digest the sawdust, because it also helps feed the essential bacteria that heats up and kills bad bacteria, seeds, and possible fungi present at the time of initial mixing of compost.

I’d like to refer you over to this website: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/soil/

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/

They are really good about info you are seeking.

Hope this helps,
Dave

Oh, 1 thing though, I wouldn’t add walnut sawdust to any compost plies or mixes, It contains toxins to other plants!

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