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You go to the supermarket and various bookshops and you will see many different magazines on every subject. For gardeners the magazines to browse through are the gardening ones. How can you tell from the glossy cover, if the gardening magazine in your hand will be worth your buying it?

Well firstly the glossy cover will give you a preview of what to expect in the gardening magazine itself. There will be the titles of certain subjects that are known to attract the attention of new gardeners and other more experienced gardeners.

To have a well kept garden is a joy. To watch your garden spring up almost magically is a wonderful feeling. Gardening services provide many different services that will keep your garden maintained without any hassle for you. Gardening doesn’t get much better than this.

A quick look at the table of contents shows what the magazines are actually offering you. You can find the standard articles on gardens and how their owners achieved that particular look. There may be articles that give expert advice on how to cultivate a new type of flower, vegetable or even a fruit hybrid.

For the new gardener there will be tips and mini projects in the gardening magazine on how to make their dream garden. They can also find articles dealing with matters like mulching and making your own compost. A new gardener can be inspired by the fantastic photographs depicting beautiful gardens. Articles pertaining to the picture in the gardening magazine will describe in detail what was done to the garden to achieve that look.

You can also look up ways to grow your plants in different garden forms. These articles may describe indoor gardening or show you how to plan a Japanese garden. You could also receive gardening tips from experts in the gardening trade. They in turn will introduce you via the gardening magazine to suppliers who have the expertise and knowledge to help you transform your humdrum, plain looking garden into a masterpiece.

In addition to these articles of interest you will find many advertisements in the gardening magazine. The will range from seed distributors to gardening equipment dealers. You may even find nurseries that will sell you seedlings and quality transplants.

There is sure to be a page or two that is devoted exclusively to future gardening magazine subscribers. You will be advised how much your subscription rate will be and how often you can receive your magazine. You may even be offered a chance to subscribe to a year’s worth of gardening magazines. In addition you could be offered a preview of what is in store for the gardening magazine next month. What a tantalizing thought.

As you can see the glossy cover to the gardening magazine is there to invite you into buying the magazine. Looking inside the magazine will let you know if this is indeed the right magazine to start you on your exciting new journey through the many different faces of gardening.

Dtm
http://www.articlesbase.com/ebooks-articles/the-gardening-magazine-57352.html

Spring-cleaning does not have to be restricted to indoor chores. If you own your property or are renting a home, it is a good idea to inspect the outside of your house and perform the annual maintenance chores that will keep it in good shape. One of the most important tasks facing you is cleaning your gutters. Don’t let fall leaves and wind-blown debris pile up in your gutters, because when the spring rains hit, there could be a backup that might cause excessive dripping, especially after winter thaws. This drainage can trickle under the roof and become a leak in your ceiling, or make a path down the side of the exterior and leach into your basement to cause damage there. It may be hard to believe, but a handful of clogged leaves or twigs or an out-of-place bird’s nest can create major problems requiring expensive repairs.

The best time to clean your gutters is in early spring, but any time during the year is fine. Plan your work for a good-weather day. Check the forecast and start early in case it starts to rain later. Assemble your tools and equipment first. You will need a sturdy stepladder, a trowel, a hand-held leaf blower or a rake, along with gloves to protect your hands.

Secure the ladder in a stable, level area near the house. Check to make sure it won’t slip. Wear sturdy shoes that will help to keep your balance while on the ladder. Take the rake with you and climb as far as you need to in order to reach the gutter. Use your hand-size rake to gently loosen mud, debris, and leaves from the gutter, taking care not to push too forcefully, which could cause breakage. Use your leaf blower as needed to scatter collected foliage. Remove as much as you can. Then carefully descend the ladder, move it a few feet to the right or left, and repeat the process until you have cleaned all the gutters along the roof.

Aim to spill the debris into a central pile below, on the ground, if possible. You might want to lay out a large, disposable tarp for this purpose. Then simply wrap it up when you are done, and discard it in the trash. Or you can use a permanent, re-usable tarp by gathering the debris with a shovel or rake and bagging it for the trash or transporting it by wheelbarrow to the compost heap, if you have one. Then clean off your ladder and tools, putting them away where you can easily find them the next time a task of this sort comes along.

If several tall trees overhang your roof, you may need to clean the gutters several times a year to prevent leaf and twig buildup. Those who are wary of heights or who lack the proper tools should hire an experienced worker to do the job for them. It’s not worth having an accident if you are uncomfortable with heights or lack suitable equipment.

Gary Wells
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-and-family-articles/clean-your-gutters-for-spring-10997.html

The first thing in garden making is the selection of a spot. Without a choice, it means simply doing the best one can with conditions. With space limited it resolves itself into no garden, or a box garden. Surely a box garden is better than nothing at all.

But we will now suppose that it is possible to really choose just the right site for the garden. What shall be chosen? The greatest determining factor is the sun. No one would have a north corner, unless it were absolutely forced upon him; because, while north corners do for ferns, certain wild flowers, and begonias, they are of little use as spots for a general garden.

If possible, choose the ideal spot a southern exposure. Here the sun lies warm all day long. When the garden is thus located the rows of vegetables and flowers should run north and south. Thus placed, the plants receive the sun’s rays all the morning on the eastern side, and all the afternoon on the western side. One ought not to have any lopsided plants with such an arrangement.

Suppose the garden faces southeast. In this case the western sun is out of the problem. In order to get the best distribution of sunlight run the rows northwest and southeast.

The idea is to get the most sunlight as evenly distributed as possible for the longest period of time. From the lopsided growth of window plants it is easy enough to see the effect on plants of poorly distributed light. So if you use a little diagram remembering that you wish the sun to shine part of the day on one side of the plants and part on the other, you can juggle out any situation. The southern exposure gives the ideal case because the sun gives half time nearly to each side. A northern exposure may mean an almost entire cut-off from sunlight; while northeastern and southwestern places always get uneven distribution of sun’s rays, no matter how carefully this is planned.

The garden, if possible, should be planned out on paper. The plan is a great help when the real planting time comes. It saves time and unnecessary buying of seed.

New garden spots are likely to be found in two conditions: they are covered either with turf or with rubbish. In large garden areas the ground is ploughed and the sod turned under; but in small gardens remove the sod. How to take off the sod in the best manner is the next question. Stake and line off the garden spot. The line gives an accurate and straight course to follow. Cut the edges with the spade all along the line. If the area is a small one, say four feet by eighteen or twenty, this is an easy matter. Such a narrow strip may be marked off like a checkerboard, the sod cut through with the spade, and easily removed. This could be done in two long strips cut lengthwise of the strip. When the turf is cut through, roll it right up like a roll of carpet.

But suppose the garden plot is large. Then divide this up into strips a foot wide and take off the sod as before. What shall be done with the sod? Do not throw it away for it is full of richness, although not quite in available form. So pack the sod grass side down one square on another. Leave it to rot and to weather. When rotted it makes a fine fertilizer. Such a pile of rotting vegetable matter is called a compost pile. All through the summer add any old green vegetable matter to this. In the fall put the autumn leaves on. A fine lot of goodness is being fixed for another season.

Even when the garden is large enough to plough, I would pick out the largest pieces of sod rather than have them turned under. Go over the ploughed space, pick out the pieces of sod, shake them well and pack them up in a compost heap.

Mere spading of the ground is not sufficient. The soil is still left in lumps. Always as one spades one should break up the big lumps. But even so the ground is in no shape for planting. Ground must be very fine indeed to plant in, because seeds can get very close indeed to fine particles of soil. But the large lumps leave large spaces which no tiny root hair can penetrate. A seed is left stranded in a perfect waste when planted in chunks of soil. A baby surrounded with great pieces of beefsteak would starve. A seed among large lumps of soil is in a similar situation. The spade never can do this work of pulverizing soil. But the rake can. That’s the value of the rake. It is a great lump breaker, but will not do for large lumps. If the soil still has large lumps in it take the hoe.

Many people handle the hoe awkwardly. The chief work of this implement is to rid the soil of weeds and stir up the top surface. It is used in summer to form that mulch of dust so valuable in retaining moisture in the soil. I often see people as if they were going to chop into atoms everything around. Hoeing should never be such vigorous exercise as that. Spading is vigorous, hard work, but not hoeing and raking.

After lumps are broken use the rake to make the bed fine and smooth. Now the great piece of work is done

John Ugoshowa
http://www.articlesbase.com/marketing-articles/making-a-garden-73850.html

More and more people are taking up vegetable gardening as it is gaining popularity. Vegetable gardening will provide you with cheaper vegetables compared with those from the stores. Moreover, your home vegetable garden will produce far better tasting vegetables. Vegetable gardening is very similar to growing herbs or flowers in your garden and if the proper procedures are taken and proper care has been given to the plants, they will flourish and provide you with great tasting vegetables.

When you want to start vegetable gardening, the first thing to do is to decide on the size of the garden you want to have and choose a suitable place for it. The place you want to plant your vegetables should have good drainage, good and deep soil, and good air flow. It also needs to have as much sunlight as possible. Because vegetable are so tasty, many animals, such as rabbits, deer, dogs, and others will try to get to your veggies. A good way to prevent this from happening is to build a fence around your garden. You may also want to put out some traps to catch moles, mice, and other small animals.

Before planting your vegetable garden, you need to prepare the soil properly. You achieve good soil for vegetable gardening by cultivation and the addition of organic materials. In order to control weeds, you need to till or plow the soil while mixing mulch into it. For those with a small garden, instead of plowing you’ll be better of with spading.

A vital part of soil preparation is mulching. Minerals, nitrogen, and other nutrients that plants will need to thrive are released when organic matter is added to the soil. Compost is the most popular and ideal type of mulch you can use. Usually, the soil and the types of plants will determine the type and amount of fertilizer to be used. Some plants have specific needs. For example, leafy plants, like lettuce, spinach, and cabbage usually need more nitrogen to grow better, while root crops like carrots, turnips, potatoes, and beets require more potash. Less fertilizer is needed by tomatoes and beans, while plants like potatoes, celery, and onions need a larger amount.

The garden arrangement is a factor that is very important in vegetable gardening. Due to varying conditions, there is no one plan of garden arrangement that will work for each and every garden. One popular way is to group vegetables together according to the amount of space they require. Plant vegetables needing only limited space together, such as spinach, beets, radishes, and lettuce and plant together those that require more room, such as potatoes, corn, and pumpkins. You should also consider planting tall growing plants towards the back of the garden while planting shorter ones towards the front. This will prevent sunlight from getting blocked and ensure that every plant will have sufficient sunlight.

You should begin planting your vegetable garden at the right time of the year. However, if you really want to get started early even when it is not the right time, you may want to start your vegetable gardening in a hotbed indoor and then transplant them later when weather permits. After completing your planting, make sure that your vegetables get the right amount of water. How much to water depends on the type of plant. Usually, most plants will require about an inch of water per week.

Weeds take up nutrients, light, and water that are meant for your vegetables. Hence, they must be controlled in vegetable gardening because they often bring insects and disease into your garden. Cultivation or mulching can get rid of weeds. You may also want to consider using controlled chemicals or buying seeds that are disease resistant in order to protect against disease and insects.

Because you get to eat the vegetables at the end, many people have made vegetable gardening their favorite form of gardening. Home grown vegetables taste much better than those from the supermarket and it is rather inexpensive to start vegetable gardening. If you provide proper care and maintenance to your garden and put in the effort, your vegetable gardening will be fruitful and you’ll be rewarded.

Richard Wong
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/vegetable-gardening-a-rewarding-hobby-94328.html

With the costs of living rising all the time, it may be possible to save money and increase your family’s health at the same time by growing vegetables in your backyard.

It’s a good idea to choose your favourite vegetables to grow and plan beds for early, middle of the season and late varieties.

Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, some need 8. Some quick growers like lettuce and radish can be grown between the rows of plants that take longer to mature, like beet or corn, thus making full use of the area available.

Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.

During the growing season watch for insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will be much easier, but be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable are close to being picked unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the vegetable waste into your compost pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.

It is important to protect your vegetable garden from wild animals looking for a tasty treat. Make sure your garden is surrounded by a fence that will keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during one season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.

Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work will pay dividends if necessary precautions have been made.

Nicky Pilkington
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/vegetable-gardening-tips-10081.html

Different kinds of gardens require different kinds of garden tools. Hardware stores mostly cater for a wide range of tools, but there are shops that specialize in the more expensive kind of garden tool that shouts quality. Wherever you decide to shop, here are a few pointers to advise you.

Do you have small garden or a large one? A small garden will not require the same large equipment that would be of use in an extensive one. A ride-on mower is unnecessary if you only have a small strip of lawn. Another point to consider is who does most of the gardening? Some tools are too heavy for use by women.

When you buy secateurs make sure the blade always stays sharp to avoid damaging the plant. Look for models that have blades that can be sharpened or replaced, models with tension control and with sizes that best fit your hands. Secateurs usually cost around $50 – $130.

Hedge trimmers or shears are handy – but only if you have a hedge, or plan on growing one. Some hedge trimmers have curved blades to stop branches from sliding out when cut.

Forks are used for turning and aerating compost and breaking up lumps of soil. The cheaper ones are often not strong enough for heavy soil, so go for sturdiness instead of price. Forks usually cost around $30 – $100.

A shovel has a scoop blade and is best used to move around dirt and garden soil. A spade has a flat blade great for cutting edges, digging and dividing plants. The edge of a spade should be kept sharpened for clean and efficient cutting will cause the least amount of damage to plants. These are a basic garden necessity and usually cost from $30 – $50.

A pruning saw is used for pruning trees and larger shrubs, while secateurs are for plants like roses. Pruning saws have a narrow curved blade that fits between stems or branches and easily and cuts them as you pull the saw backwards. They are approximately $27- $55.

A chipping hoe is a handy tool for getting rid of small weeds. The Dutch or push-hoe is slightly more user-friendly as the action required to use it does not jar the neck and shoulder quite so much.

A rake is also a basic requirement for the garden. The strong rake with the flat head and sharp metal prongs is used for smoothing a garden bed and getting out the last of the bumps and weeds. The plastic rake is used to gather leaves and grass clippings only.

Gardening tools don’t have to be expensive. Flea markets and garage sales can be excellent places to pick up great tool bargain.

Nicky Pilkington
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/in-search-of-the-best-gardening-tools-10145.html

What type of lawn care works best for you depends on the time and money you decide to put into your lawn. If your lawn is your hobby, you can spend thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of time on it.

On the other side of the fence, if what you want is a low-maintenance green expanse that you can enjoy with family and friends, you’ve come to the right page!

The best lawn care tip you can get is to start with a solid plan.

1. Do you need to plant grass? Do some research on the best seed for your area, where to buy it cheap, and when it’s available. Depending on where you live, you’ll plant either cool season or warm season grass.

Cool season grass, planted in northern areas, is usually best planted in early fall, but if you missed planting then, plant it in the spring when soil temperatures reach 50 F.

Warm season grass needs soil temps of 70F to thrive and is the choice for southern plantings. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you can plant warm season grass in the upper Midwest. Warm season grasses are bred to thrive in southern climates and are not winter hardy in the north.

2. Of course, you’ll keep new grass plantings moist, but once grass reaches a height of three inches, water it deeply once a week.

A healthy lawn needs about an inch of water a week. When watering, remember to consider recent rainfalls. Shallow watering techniques keep grass from sinking the deep roots that your lawn needs to compete with deep-rooted weeds.

3. Do you already have a lawn? Aerate it in the spring while it’s still moist and before the spring rains are done.

Aerating your lawn in the springtime gives microbes and other small life forms a breath of fresh air after winter. Aeration also makes new paths for drainage and keeps your lawn from becoming saturated.

4. A lot is written about lawn fertilizer and the big question is why? Grass is the most efficient user of nitrogen on earth!

Feed your soil with nutrient rich compost and let your lawn get its nutrients the natural way. The more chemicals you use, the more you disturb the natural biological processes that convert organic matter into nutrients and the microbes and other small organisms that take natural care of your lawn.

5. Mow your grass high. A 2 to 3-inch high cut makes your lawn look fuller, feel softer, and helps keep it healthy. Taller grass shades pesky weed seeds and keeps them from getting established. In addition, a taller lawn is better able to absorb sunshine and better able to retain moisture, the two main contributors to a healthy lawn.

6. Enjoy your lawn. After all, isn’t that your main reason for having a yard?

John Pawlett
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/lawn-care-tips-six-easy-steps-to-a-great-lawn-89418.html

A beautifully mowed lawn is the cornerstone of a beautiful property. During the growing season, if you look around at the yards in your neighborhood, it is usually pretty easy to tell the lawns that look as though they were mowed by a professional landscape maintenance service from the ones that look as though they were hacked down by the kid who lives up the street. Whether you use a walk behind mower, or a ride on machine, this technique will work for you.

Here are 8 steps that, with a little practice and patience, are sure to give your lawn a professionally mowed appearance.

Before you begin, though, make sure that your lawn mower has been properly maintained, in accordance with manufacturer’s specifications. Make sure the mower blade is sharpened and balanced – replace if necessary, taking care to disconnect the sparkplug before reaching under the mower. Also, be sure to wear appropriate safety equipment like noise reducing ear-muffs, or earplugs, vibration absorbing gloves, and protective eyewear.

Set your mower to an appropriate mowing height of 2 ½” to 3 ½”, for most cool season grasses. To avoid damaging your lawn, do not cut more than one inch, or one-third of the total current length of the lawn, at any one mowing. Mowing your lawn every 5 – 7 days, with no bag, ensures relatively short grass clippings that will quickly dry up becoming unnoticeable, and eventually compost, nourishing the lawn.

Now you’re ready to mow the lawn, well, almost;

1. Using either a manual or power trimmer, proceed around the perimeter of the area to be mowed, trimming grass that would be difficult to reach with the mower. Trim the grass to the height you plan to mow the lawn – from the property line in about 4” to 6” should suffice. When the perimeter is done, continue trimming around trees, fence and lamp posts, islands and flower beds, drives and walks, and also around things like sprinkler heads and decorative rocks, making mental note to watch out for these obstacles when mowing.

2. Now, grab a trash bag and do a quick walk-about, picking up any debris and sticks, so they don’t get run over by the lawn mower. In your mind, divide the lawn into major sections for mowing.

3. Start your mower and make 3 complete passes around the perimeter of one of the major sections of lawn, allowing the grass clippings to discharge toward the center of the lawn. This gives you plenty of room to turn the lawn mower around without leaving patches of un-cut grass.

4. About half-way down one side of the section, turn so that you are facing the opposite side; with approximately equal amounts of lawn on your right and left.

5. Look across the section and pick a spot on the opposite side, directly across the lawn. Walk directly toward the spot you picked on the opposite side. Focusing on the spot, rather than the area directly in front of the mower, will help you make a straight line. Mowing in straight lines and proper trimming are the keys to a professional looking job. It is impossible to emphasize enough, though, the importance of bearing in mind the obstacles mentioned above. Pay attention and don’t run something over just for the sake of keeping a straight line.

6. Once you get across the lawn, carefully turn your mower around and look back at the line you just made. You can now see any places where the line varies from straight and, usually within the next pass or two, true it right up. Finish one side of the section, then the next, and then proceed to each section and repeat the process until the whole lawn is mowed.

7. When you are done mowing, take one more look at the important spots like entrance ways, walks and drives, and other places that draw your attention. If you missed any patches with the trimmer, or on lawn mower turn-around spots, now is the time to go back and get them. Paying close attention to the details is what sets the professional lawn care company apart from the kid who lives up the street.

8. Finally, use a broom or leaf blower to push stray grass clippings back on to the lawn. Beginning with the area around the primary entrance to your home, clean off the landing and steps, continue along the walkway and out the driveway to the road. Clean off any decks or patios you may have, or anywhere else that has collected unsightly grass clippings.

Here are three more things to keep in mind while mowing.

First, when using a power trimmer, like a line feed trimmer, the grass is ripped, not cleanly-cut, where it makes contact with the string. It is really easy to damage the grass, so be careful not to over-do – better it look a little less than perfect than you wind up whacking a hole in the lawn.

The next one applies when using a self-propelled mower, on turn-a-rounds. If the pivot wheel stops turning completely (or the power wheel loses traction), it will almost certainly tear up the grass, below. Always turn around slowly, but make sure that all the wheels of the mower keep turning, at least a little bit. This way you will minimize the damage done by the mower, on turn-a-rounds.

Finally, while you may have a favorite direction in which to mow your lawn, front-back, side-side, diagonal, or even something more unique, it is probably best to mow it a different direction, at least every other time. This, too, will help minimize damage to your lawn by reducing the frequency with which you turn around on the same spots.

As you can see, mowing to achieve that ‘professional look’ takes a bit more attention to detail, strategic planning and time than you may be used to spending on your lawn. With some patience and practice, though, your efforts will pay off, and your lawn will look as though it has been mowed by a professional landscaper.

Jay Purner
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/mow-your-lawn-like-a-professional-landscaper-90723.html

Some gardeners worry how their garden will survive while they are away on holidays. With a little organization and preparation, you can go on holidays without worrying about facing impending doom in your veggie patch when you get home.

1: Plan the timing of your holiday. Don’t decide to go lay on a beach somewhere when you know your gorgeous tomatoes will be turning ripe. You’ll miss out on your harvest and be so disappointed (well I would!). I find the best time to go – if I must go in summer – is mid-summer. My spring vegetables are finished and my summer vegetables aren’t ready yet.

2: Adjust the planting of your garden. If you know you’re going to be away later in summer, then plant everything later so that it matures later – when you’re back and refreshed. This works well for tomatoes, capsicums / peppers, beans etc.

3: Harvest before you leave. If you’re going to be gone a week or so, pick all your beans, even the ones that are too small to use. Beans stop producing when they are allowed to mature, so pick those that will mature while you’re gone. Do the same with eggplant. Tomatoes and peppers can generally either stay on the plant or fall onto the ground without harming the plants. Pick all the female flowers from your summer squash plants. It’s amazing how fast a zucchini can grow into the size of a house when you’re not looking.

Take any fresh veggies along with you, especially if you’re visiting friends or relatives. I’m sure they’ll love it.

4: Get on top of the weeds. Pull out any larger weeds. You don’t want to come home to find your garden taken over by triffids. And gardeners know that one season of weed seeds, means seven years of weeding!

5: Water deeply. Even if it has rained recently before you go away, you still should give your plants a healthy watering before you leave. Even better, is to have an irrigation system set up, with a timer – set and forget.

6: Apply mulch. Mulch thickly (15cm / 6inches) with moistened pea-straw or similar after a good watering. Add some compost under the mulch as an extra bonus for your plants. The mulch will conserve water and prevent weeds.

7: Enjoy your holiday. Now you can leave your garden knowing that it has already been well cared for.

Julie Williams
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/tips-to-keep-your-organic-garden-healthy-while-youre-on-holidays-90858.html

Many gardeners live in areas where almost anything can grow effortlessly. Just plant the seeds and water it for a few weeks, and you’ve got a beautifully lush plant. But if you live in somewhere like Colorado, you’ll understand what its like to have a slim selection of plants that naturally grow. It can be quite a challenge to facilitate the growth of a large variety of plants, especially when the very world you live in seems to be rooting against you.

Some people solve this problem by loading up their plants with every type of chemical and fertilizer known to man. This usually works, but to me it seems kind of unnatural to rely on man made materials to keep your plants alive. Also, if I’m growing fruits or vegetables, I don’t feel very comfortable eating something that is entirely composed of chemicals.

A gardening theory that I have relied on in the past to grow many types of plants is that of creating a “microclimate” for each type of plant. This is when you regulate the sunlight, shade, moisture, and wind factors for each separate plant. It sounds like a challenge, and it is. But you can regulate these factors in such a way that the plant feels just like it is in the ideal growing conditions. This can be achieved by the use of wind barriers, shading umbrellas, extra water, or different types or amounts of compost.

If you’re ready to make an attempt at creating microclimates, you’ll need to make a detailed plan in advanced. You should start by finding a large shade providing bush or tree that will grow fast and naturally in your area. Just look at some undeveloped plots of land and see what is there. Most likely it grew on its own without any planting or care. This is what you want to happen. Usually the growing of one plant can bring about the growing of another more desirable plant.

If you have a fence in your backyard (you would be surprised at how many people don’t) then you already have a good amount of shade to work with. You can start the microclimate process using just the shade of the fence, combined with (perhaps) a screen or large bush to shade your new plant for the other half of the day that the fence doesn’t take care of. The fence is also useful for shading against wind for very fragile plants.

Once you have established the shade, be it natural or unnatural, you have created a slightly less harsh miniature environment. You must remember this is a gradual process, and find a new plant to put in the shade of the other one. Now your choices are a little more open. You don’t have to go with a rugged plant like the one you did before; you can now choose a plant that survives in cooler weather.

If the plant you are trying to grow next requires more moisture in the air than your area provides, installing a fountain or small pond can fix this problem due to the evaporation. You may think you don’t want to waste water on a pond or fountain, but it’s all going toward the betterment of your garden. It’s just like the watering process, only indirect. As an added benefit, usually fountains are quite aesthetically attractive and a great addition to your garden.

I can’t explain every stage of the process, because everyone’s goals and setups are slightly different. But to reach your goal, you should do research on every plant that you would like to have in your garden. Find out everything you can about the zone that it flourishes in, and ask yourself how you can emulate that zone within your own backyard. Almost always you can take control of the environment and recreate whatever you wish. Usually all it takes is some planning and strategy.

Josiah Smart
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/create-the-right-environment-for-growth-746818.html