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Archive for January, 2010

Some Great Additions To Improve Your Greenhouse

Saturday, January 30th, 2010
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Here are some things you will need to add to your greenhouse over the months:

Benches and Shelves

Unless you have planned this greenhouse for a long time and have a supply of good soil ready, the soil required for your first year’s planting may have to be included in your budget. More than just plain garden soil is needed for potting most greenhouse-grown plants. Garden or field loam can make up as much as a third of the mixture, but it should be enriched with another third of organic material.

Vermiculite or sand is the other third. With an established compost pile or a heap of leaf-mold, you will find it necessary to purchase only such organics as sphagnum moss, peatmoss, or peat. Sphagnum moss wholesales at a few dollars a bale plus shipping charges; granulated peatmoss and horticultural peat. Leafmold is priced at cheaply per bushel. Special potting materials such as osmunda fiber (an old-time medium for orchids ) can cost a fair amount, shredded wood and bark, used increasingly of late in orchid culture, is (or was) priced very reasonably.

An asbestos bench 3 feet wide, up to 49 feet long, with 6½-inch sides, including pipe and fittings, retails for about $4.00 per linear foot (or at least it did when I bought one a while ago).

Shelves can be of glass or wood. You can purchase ready-made ones, or start out by making a few of your own and adding more as your operation expands.

Greenhouse Walk

For a walk between the benches, use a cement slab, flagstone, wooden slats, pebbles, or gravel. My walk is a cement slab, and I find it satisfactory since it is easy to wash down.

Potting Bench and Storage Cabinets

You must decide on some form of potting bench, and it will be easier if you allow room for it in your original plans. If you cannot bear to give up greenhouse space for working instead of growing, and if your greenhouse is attached to your house, you can probably do as I have.

The greenhouse door opens into our utility room, in which I have a cabinet with a 5/2-foot base.

The counter of this cabinet is used for potting, the shelves hold pots and potting equipment. In the greenhouse annex (between the utility room and the greenhouse proper), I have another cabinet for supplies such as fungicides, insecticides, labels, and fertilizers.

Some growers use a garage area for potting and storing materials.

This works out fine if your garage is heated or you live in one of the warmer areas; otherwise, it may prove impractical since much potting must be done in winter.

If your greenhouse does not have room for a potting bench, the basement of your home may offer a convenient area.

In any case, make the potting bench as strong as possible for it is destined for hard usage. Transite makes an excellent table top; or you can construct a top of ¾-, 1-, or 2-inch lumber. Actually, even if you expect to be dumping a bushel or two of soil on the counter at a time, the ¾-inch top will serve you well.

About Electricity

Be sure to include enough electrical outlets in your greenhouse. You may need extra lights, soil cables, or emergency heating, and it is provoking-and possibly dangerous-to have to run an extension cord to an outlet in your house to get adequate power or light.

In the small greenhouse the cost of electricity can usually be held to a minimum. By operating without growing lights (artificial lighting units) and soil cables you will have only the cost of a light or two for working after dark. If you install fluorescent lights, you can figure this additional operating cost -varying with the locality-at approximately 1/4 cent per hour for two 40-watt tubes. A 100-watt incandescent bulb burns at about 1/3 cent per hour.

Propagating Cases

You can convert one end of your growing bench into a propagating case by installing an electric soil cable. And in this area you can raise any plants requiring bottom heat for growth. To create the “case,” place a piece of glass over the planting; or you can have a glass frame made to fit over the cuttings. A plastic propagating case would also be good.

About Water

Include hot as well as cold water in the plumbing plans for your greenhouse. A mixing faucet will make it possible for you to draw water of proper temperature at any time for your plants.

There is no need to pipe softened water into your greenhouse, unless you want it for hand-washing. Most types of artificially softened water should not be used on plants. While it may do them no immediate harm, it may gradually weaken cell structure and lead to plant collapse.

Copper piping is satisfactory for use in the greenhouse. I have some in mine, and it has never caused any “copper poisoning.” Experts at the University of Minnesota assure me that water passing through copper pipes is perfectly safe to use on all types of plants.

Where to Get Soil

Benches and shelves are other greenhouse requisites. Benches can be built of redwood, cypress, or asbestos with slatted or solid surfaces. Some growers set their plants directly on the bench. In my benches I use galvanized tray-inserts holding a 2-inch layer of pea rock on which I set the potted plants.

Some growers construct a wooden tray for the bench and put soil in this tray so that plants can be grown directly in the bench. You may prefer to place sand in the tray and plunge pots into the sand. If the sand is kept moist, it provides extra humidity and keeps pots cool.

Gerald Mason
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/some-great-additions-to-improve-your-greenhouse-276027.html

Indoor Organic Gardening- 3 Major Aspects Of Indoor Organic Gardening!

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

No doubt modern techniques in agriculture have given us much, but at what cost? People are slowly realizing that chemicals and commercialization are neither benefitting plants nor humans, and are therefore seeking alternative modes of gardening–more environmental-friendly in nature. Going “organic” is the only solution–either outdoors or indoors. People living in flats and apartments can go in for indoor organic gardening.

There are three major aspects to indoor organic gardening–

(1) What is indoor organic gardening or holistic gardening? This garden is created inside a building. Whatever context it is taken in, its main theme remains the same–use only “natural” materials to grow plants.

Among the various types of indoor organic gardening, the most popular ones are hydroponics (cultivation of plants in nutrient solutions and not in soil) and vegan gardening (only kitchen waste to be used as compost, not animal refuse).

(2) Why is indoor organic gardening preferable to indoor conventional gardening?

There are four reasons for advocating this type of gardening–

(a) People are generally worried about finances! Well, an organic garden brings down costs, for the simple reason that money need no longer be spent on purchasing vegetables and fruits from the market or chemical fertilizers.

(b) Kitchen wastes and other organic wastes (anything which proves useful to the plant) in the house come in useful as compost (natural fertilizer).

(c) Since no synthetic materials are used, it follows that consumed foods are far healthier and better in taste. When treated with chemical fertilizers, some of the material gets deposited into the vegetables.

(d) Very little soil is required (sometimes, no soil at all). Neither the soil nor water get to retain chemical residues as no chemicals are used. Thus, the environment is safe.

(3) What are the relevant features of indoor organic gardening?

(a) Anything can be cultivated–simple houseplants, specific herbs, fruits or vegetables.

(b) There are two options available for indoor organic gardening–purchasing readymade gardening kits from brick and mortar gardening stores or online shops, or doing everything from the beginning.

A novice or someone rushed for time better plant seedlings, as the process of transplanting and/or spacing of new plants need not be attempted then.

(c) As the plants are being grown indoors, lighting should be adequate to enable them to prepare food. If the plants cannot get sufficient amount of sunlight, then the gardener can search for alternative sources of lighting.

(d) Regarding temperature and humidity, they should complement each other. In an outside environment, nature does the regulation, but the same is not the case indoors. A humidifier should do the trick since it controls the humidity level and keeps it constant.

(e) As for all plants, the amount of water for each houseplant should be proportionate to its needs. There should be no under-watering or over-watering.

Abhishek Agarwal
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/indoor-organic-gardening-3-major-aspects-of-indoor-organic-gardening-753791.html

An Introduction to Annuals

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

need to be replanted each year, at least here in New England. What can be considered and annual here in Massachusetts may actually be a perennial in Florida so the term annual is somewhat relative.

Most annuals cannot tolerate freezing temperatures so they should be planted after the last spring frost; here in Massachusetts it’s usually safe to plant in early may. Be aware of your local conditions before you plant as well of the needs of the plant. Few annuals will thrive in the shade. Most prefer between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day, there are a few annuals, however, such as impatiens and begonias, which will tolerate some light shade. When choosing your site, avoid areas which remain water logged after summer showers.

With their impressive displays of color, annuals are able stand on their own as bedding plants. They can also add color to the herb garden or fill in thin spots and gaps in the perennial bed where they can be used to compliment other flowers.

Proper site preparation is essential. To prepare the ground for planting turn over the soil to the depth of about 1′ and add compost and peat moss. Basically, you’ll want to prepare the planting area the same way you would a perennial bed. Add compost and other organic matter to increase water retention in sandy soils. For clay soils, add compost and sand to improve drainage. To promote deep root growth water thoroughly. Let the soil dry out before watering again. Soaker hoses work well in annual beds since they slowly soak the soil while keeping the flowers and leaves dry. Nutrient rich soil will help annuals get established quickly which is critical in areas with short growing seasons. When planting, add to the soil a slow release fertilizer so the plants are fed through the entire season. Once the annuals begin to flower deadheading becomes very important. This the process in which the past blooms are pruned or pinched off of the plant. Deadheading prevents annuals from putting all of its energy into producing seed heads; rather, the energy put forth will go into producing more flowers. Along with deadheading, be sure to cultivate the garden soil throughout the season, this will loosen compacted soil and allow moisture and nutrients to reach the plant’s deepest roots.

Light mulch, such as buckwheat hulls, will help reduce the growth of weeds in the garden and help the soil retain its moisture. Be sure to remove any weeds that do appear as annuals do not like competition for water and nutrients. Annuals can also be in competition with other garden plants. If the flowers are to be grown along the edges of the lawn, make sure that you edge the garden bed often with a garden spade. This will help keep the grass roots from growing beneath the garden and robbing the annuals of nutrients and moisture. If your planting beds are cut into the lawn, they should be at least 3 ft. wide; this will give the plants enough room to flourish.

When spring arrives, head out to the greenhouse, pick out some annuals and plant them as soon as the weather permits. Annuals tend to be a bit more labor intensive than perennials but the payoff, non stop colorful blooms from spring through autumn, makes it worth it.

Tim Birch
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/an-introduction-to-annuals-17302.html

Ideas From a Frugal Fanatic

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

One of the ways we stay out of debt is to take frugal living to the extreme; we’ve already decided that following the conventional wisdom of the financial gurus just isn’t enough to make ends meet and to get ahead.

Some of the advice given is to keep track of where your money goes, or brown bag it, and that’s good advice, but, I don’t have that kind of patients – I wish I did, impulsive behavior has been a drawback at times – so, instead of keeping track of what I spend I’ll cut to the quick and not take my wallet at all, of course that takes care of the second issue “eating” as well, a great deterrent to fastfood.

The one piece of advice that I do like is to declutter your home because you’ll come across “found money”; finding money is always a treat, kinda gives you a miniature lottery winners rush, this is only good one time, after you’ve cleaned up your place – you could always trash out your house again and go for a really big score… wish it worked that way.

Most of my frugal efforts go towards the larger items on my seasonal list like, firewood; every year, at the start of the winter season, when the winds start to pick up there is a big call for tree service to remove blown down trees, alot of it hardwoods. I will offer my services at a greatly reduced price – free – no ones beaten that price yet. I can get enough wood for a couple of winters; some people will have the wood already bucked up for me and all I have to do is haul it away, at best I get a thank you and at the worst I only have to endure some eye rolling and maybe a crazy hillbilly comment(too true).

Extreme frugalism(uh, new word?) means having a closed system, where your wastes are recycled in one way or another otherwise your always going to have to pay out. A common example is composting yard wastes(grasses, leaves, twigs and manure) then using the decomposed organic matter in the garden come spring, and so it follows that after the havest ,of vegetables and other plants, you would turn under the plants to decompose to return nutrients to the soil; a closed system of continually reused organic material.

Ideally my household would operate the same way, paper products burned or composted, food scraps given over to the worms(vermiculture) to be redistributed as castings. All recyclables (plastic, glass, tin) taken to the dump to be sorted. Unfortunately, procrastination is a vice I haven’t totally given up, so, my closed system is still open ended; I’m working on it!

Specialization is a symptom of the disease, “I’m in debt up to my eyeballs and I can’t get out!”. The less you know how to do the more dependent you are on someone else, and of course, that someone else is going to charge you, “What the market can bear”, translation: just enough not to break your back. So, our system has espoused the virtue of specialization, great for the economy, not so great for your wallet.

It wasn’t too long ago(in the scope of history) that having the knowledge to perform alot of these things (making yarn, clothing, food production, building your own home, etc.) were all common place things that you were expected to know, now each is a specialization that only a person with the appropriate schooling could possibly perform – blah, blah, blah.

I’m reminded, almost on a daily basis, that there are other people that take care of those things, that there isn’t a need for me to know how to do this or that, and also being called a “Cheapskate” just as often. Recently when, in the presence of my niece, I was called a cheapskate, she said, “No he’s not, he’s just frugal” – redemption at last.

Jesse Turner
http://www.articlesbase.com/finance-articles/ideas-from-a-frugal-fanatic-119255.html

Gardening With Annuals

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

Annuals provide gardens with an array of colorful flowers from spring until the first frost. With their striking display of colorful blooms, annuals are effective on their own as bedding plants. Annuals can also provide additional color to the herb or perennial bed where they can fill in bare spots and compliment the other flowers.

Though annuals flower all summer long, they sprout, flower, set seed and die within one growing season. Since annuals cannot tolerate freezing temperatures they need to be planted in the spring after the there is longer a threat of frost. Become familiar with your local climate and the specific needs of the flowers before you plant.

Prior to planting your new flowers, prepare the site. You’ll want to amend the existing soil with organic compost in order to increase the it’s ability to hold water in sandy soils. Clay soils, however, are often too heavy and wet for annuals. Add compost and sand to clay soil to improve drainage. Mix in the soil conditioners with the existing soil to the depth of about 1 foot. Nutrient rich soil encourages annuals to establish quickly. As you plant, add a slow release fertilizer to the soil so the plants are adequately fed throughout the entire growing season. Water newly planted annuals well to promote deep root growth. Avoid over watering, however. Soil which is always wet may result in root rot. Soaker hoses are great for annual beds since they slowly soak the soil while keeping the flowers and leaves dry.

Few annuals will flourish in shady conditions. In fact, most prefer between 6 and 8 hours of sun per day. Some annuals, however, such as impatiens and begonias, will tolerate shade.

Deadheading, the process of clipping of the spent blooms, will encourage annuals to flower continuously throughout the season. Deadheading prevents annuals from putting all of their energy into producing seed heads; rather, their energy goes into producing more flowers.

A light mulch, such as buckwheat hulls, will help limit the encroachment of weeds in the garden. It will also help the soil retain moisture. Annuals don’t like competition in the garden so be sure to remove any weeds that do appear. Annuals will also compete with other flowers like perennials or a surrounding lawn. If the flowers are planted in a bed next to a lawn space, edge the garden bed a few times during the season with an edger. This will help keep the grass roots from growing beneath the garden and taking the annual’s nutrients and water.

Annual beds which are cut into the lawn should be at least 3 ft. wide; this will make maintenance easier and give the flowers adequate space to grow. Cultivate the garden regularly. It will loosen compacted soil and allow air, moisture and nutrients to penetrate the garden surface.

When spring arrives or as soon as the weather permits, head to the greenhouse and pick out some annuals. Have a plan ready before you go. Annuals are somewhat more labor intensive than most other garden plants but the payoff, continuous colorful flowers from spring through autumn, is well worth the effort.

anonymous
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/gardening-with-annuals-93617.html

Vegetable Gardening Tips on Planting and Maintenance

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Here are some tips on vegetable gardening that should help make your gardening experience easier and a very gratifying experience. Preparing the soil for your garden is the most important step. The basis of any successful garden is proper soil that creates good seed germination. Vegetables enjoy garden soil that is well drained, deep, contains high organic matter and retains moisture. Make sure the soil is dry before you try plowing or working the dirt. Check the soil acidity or PH for the different vegetables you are going to plant as some may require varying degrees of PH levels. Another tip on vegetable gardening is that you need easy access to water to keep your garden moist during the growing season. Regularly watering is necessary to keep your garden healthy. In most gardening areas, a vegetable garden requires approximately one inch of rainwater or tap water weekly during the growing season. So, if you experience a dry spell, make sure you water your vegetable garden sufficiently to keep the plants healthy and growing.

Another couple of helpful tips on vegetable gardening are making yourself knowledgeable about the requirements of the vegetable seeds and vegetables you want to plant in your garden. Find out information, such as tendency toward insects, germination qualities, light required, vigor of the plants and the planting zones. This will help you determine the best varieties and types of seeds and plants for your area and garden. A great tip on vegetable gardening is, when you sow your seeds, always plant a few extra to replace ones that fail to germinate. Keep the garden moist until the seedlings have emerged and never thin them until their second set of leaves appears. Thinning out the row when the seedlings are small keeps you from disturbing the other vegetables roots. Test your soil periodically to determine if you need fertilizer and the amount you need. Having your own compost is a great and natural way to fertilize your vegetable garden and cuts down on garbage.

The best way to keep pests away or under control is to start by having healthy soil and plants, using compost, regular watering and adequate drainage. When considering tips on vegetable gardening, do not forget weed control. Weeds rob plants of water, light and nutrients. Hoe or cultivate the soil between your plants after it rains, as this kills any newly sprouted weeds. Use a mixture of pine needles and grass if available, to keep the weeds down or a layer of wet newspaper between the rows of vegetables. Try planting marigolds around the vegetable garden border in order to discourage aphids.

A very good homemade deterrent for pests is:

In a jar, combine 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and 1 cup vegetable oil. Shake vigorously. In an empty spray bottle, combine 2 teaspoons of this mixture and 1 cup water. Use at ten-day intervals (or more often if needed) to rid plants of whiteflies, mites, aphids, scales, and other pests.

Most important of all is that you enjoy your vegetable garden. You will gain a lot of satisfaction from the fact that you grew the vegetables yourself. Not only will you have fun from your garden hobby but now you can start a culinary hobby with all your fresh produce.

Happy Gardening!

Copyright © Mary Hanna, All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/vegetable-gardening-tips-on-planting-and-maintenance-114666.html

Plus Points For Organic Gardening

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Organic gardening is the way of growing vegetables and fruits with the use of things only found in nature.
Why would one want to indulge in organic gardening?

1.One can easily make compost from garden and kitchen waste. Though this is a bit more time-consuming than buying prepared chemical pesticides and fertilizers, it certainly helps to put garbage to good use and so saves the environment.

2. Organic farming does not use chemicals that may have an adverse affect on your health. This is especially important when growing vegetables. Chemical companies tell us that the chemicals we use are safe if used according to direction, but research shows that even tiny amounts of poisons absorbed through the skin can cause such things as cancer, especially in children.

On the average, a child ingests four to five times more cancer-causing pesticides from foods than an adult. This can lead to various diseases later on in the child’s life. With organic gardening, these incidents are lessened.

Remember, pesticides contain toxins that have only one purpose – to kill living things.

3. Less harm to the environment. Poisons are often washed into our waterways, causing death to the native fish and polluting their habitat.

4.Organic farming practices help prevent the loss of topsoil through erosion.
The Soil Conservation Service says that an estimated 30 – 32 billion tons of soil erodes from United States farmlands every year.

5. Cost savings. One does not need to buy costly chemical fertilizers and pesticides with organic gardening. Many organic recipes for the control of pest and disease come straight from the kitchen cupboard. Sometimes other plants can be grown as companions to the main crop. An example of this is the marigold, which helps to repel aphids from vegetables.
Mixing 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap and 1 cup of cooking oil can make a cheap garden pest spray. Put 3 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 quart of water and spray on plants.

6.A simple mulch of pine needles will help to suppress the growth of weeds as well as keeping the moisture in.

7.Organic gardening practices help to keep the environment safe for future generations.

5 Pieces of Equipment Gardeners Can’t Live Without
Gardening is fun and rewarding and may be considered a hobby, talent or both and sometimes it’s just luck. Gardening is not as easy as it looks and involves dedication, time and consistency and many trials and errors. There are many aspects to maintaining a healthy garden, but some aspects are more important than others. An individual who likes to garden can have the knowledge to produce the best garden in the world, but without the right equipment and materials it just wouldn’t be possible.

Below you will find a list of the top 5 pieces of equipment which gardeners simply cannot live without:

1. Trowel. A trowel is a shovel-like piece of equipment which is used to dig up dirt and set small plants. There are many styles to choose from and type of handle on your trowel will determine how well it works. Easy grip, non-slide and non-slip grips are the best form of handle to choose. These will be easier to use and will require less work than any other form of trowel.

A trowel with no grip will be difficult to use and could end up ruining your garden. Try one out in your hand first to ensure it feels comfortable. There’s nothing like having your hand cramp or the trowel slip while using it to dig in a beautiful, new plant.

2. Pitchfork. A pitchfork is a gardening tool which has 2-6 prongs and a long handle. The sizes of pitchforks vary, depending on what they are being used for. The space between each prong varies as well. Pitchforks are used to separate, lift and throw loose pieces of material such as dirt and leaves.

3. Spade. A gardening spade has a long, thick handle and a heavy flat blade. This tool is used to dig up and move pieces of dirt from one place to another. It can also be used to pack down dirt once the flower has been planted.

4. Pruning Shears. Pruning shears are tools which have a long handles and blades. This type of gardening equipment is used to allow gardeners to precisely prune rose bushes and other plants and unruly vines, etc. It can also be used to cut the grass at the edges of walkways and garden beds, in those hard to reach places. It is also used to trim the edges and remove dead leaves or wood on flowers.

There is no other piece of gardening equipment which can do the same job as pruning shears. Without the use of this piece of equipment, your garden will end up looking messy and disorganized. Always, always, always invest in good quality pruning shears. Good ones have a lifetime guarantee and low-end ones will make shrapnel of your heritage rose.

5. Wheelbarrow. A wheelbarrow is one of the larger pieces of garden equipment. It is a cart with a handle and at least one wheel which is designed for easy transportation of materials from one place to another. Purchasing a wheelbarrow will save you a lot of time and effort, especially if you are off to the compost heap, and will make for a pleasant gardening experience. Another option is the 4-wheeled gardening cart.

There are many pieces of gardening equipment which will make this hobby easier and more efficient, however the ones listed above are recognized as the most important. These pieces of equipment will likely last a very long time.

John Pawlett
http://www.articlesbase.com/environment-articles/plus-points-for-organic-gardening-96240.html

Organic Gardening and Lawn Care

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Most home owners take lot of pride in caring for their homes both inside and out, and try to make their home the best that it can be. Nice landscaping makes a person feel welcomed to the home.

Having the correct tools and lawn care products is essential to getting your garden and lawn looking its very best. Far too many people believe that the way to achieve this is through the use of pesticides and other chemicals to eliminate weeds and keep bugs under control. People do not realize that they can have a really beautiful lawn and garden using organic gardening methods, and they won’t be harming the environment in the process.

Fertilizers used on today’s lawns are full of chemicals the worst of these being nitrates and phosphates. Since it takes several pounds of fertilizer to treat one lawn, you are exposing your family and pets to a great deal of toxic products. Fertilizers are known to trigger asthma, are a known carcinogen, and cause neurological problems in young children and pets. Worse yet these chemicals get into the soil and into our drinking water supply.

So what can you do to make the switch to organic gardening? The first change you should make is to switch to using natural compost. Despite what people think, composting is not difficult. Simply purchasing a compost container where you dispose of food scraps, pet dropping, and your lawn and leaf litter is the first step. By its very nature, the amount of composting material generated, will be a lot less that the amount of material that you start out with. You want to save your materials all year long to make enough compost to serve your garden.

Having good soil will produce a much healthier and longer root system, which will in turn produce healthier plants and grass. Long roots require less water to keep it green. This will cut back on your water bill as well.

Many communities are under water restrictions, so having good soil and a good root system will allow you to have a lovely lawn and garden despite those water restrictions.

It is also important to know that watering should be done in the early morning hours to avoid loss of water to evaporation. Watering in the heat of the day will result in most of the water being evaporated before being used by the plants. Watering during the nighttime hours exposes your lawn to fungus.

Another way to preserve the water you use is by adding a layer of mulch over the top of the soil to reduce evaporation loss.

If you are the type that enjoys spending a lot of time on your lawn, use organic gardening methods. This will keep toxic chemicals from harming your family and pets.

The use of native plants is another good organic practice. To avoid disappointment, choose the proper plants and grass that grow in your area. Not all plants grow in all area, and may need extra water and care to survive.

There is a benefit to choosing native grass and giving at a good root system. Those lawns hold up much better to foot traffic and child’s play. You certainly wouldn’t want a lawn that everyone has to stay off in order for it to look nice.

Far too many individuals immediately reach for chemicals to kill off weeds. It is important to first find out what type of weed is growing to indentify the problem you are having. Overwatering may produce weeds that thrive in a wet environment. Simply cutting down on the amount of water you are using will eliminate the problem.

Some weeds can actually be beneficial to your lawn, and you may want to leave them alone. They can serve as a natural fertilizer for your yard. The rest of the weeds should be either pulled out by hand or to use tools to remove them. Just make sure you pull them from the roots up so they can’t re-grow as easily.

Many people just run weeds over with their lawnmowers. This is not a good idea as there are seeds in the weeds. Cutting them with the lawnmower will result in the weeds spreading all over the place. This will result in your having more weeds in more areas than when you began.

One final change you need to make before you go organic is to choose the proper lawn mower. A reel type mower puts no pollutants into the air and does not produce noise pollution. You also get the benefit of exercise using a reel lawn mower.

The next best choice is an electric mower. This type mower has improved over the years. They are now battery operated and do not require a long electric cord to operate. Last is the gas powered lawn mower. These are probably the most polluting device used by homeowners. One hour of using a lawn mower is equivalent to driving 1300 miles in an automobile. To truly go organic, ditch the gas lawn mower.

Beverly Saltonstall
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/organic-gardening-and-lawn-care-701037.html

Green Collar Jobs and How You Can Fit In

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

The world is constantly changing before our eyes. Technology has created advancements that we could never have imagined 20 years ago. But with many of the advancements have come negative changes to our environment like pollution and global warming that affect the way we live our lives.

As a result, these changes have inspired the creation of jobs meant to contribute to and aid our environment rather than destroy it. These jobs are called “green collar jobs.” If you are interested in learning more about this industry, take a look at how it affects you and how you can fit in.

What are Green Collar Jobs?

Green collar jobs are typically defined along the lines of blue collar jobs. However, these jobs were created by companies that want to help improve the environment. You can see minor changes in the everyday activities of some businesses. For instance, some grocery chains have stopped passing out plastic bags for free and have began charging customers with the proceeds benefiting the environment. Because so much more effort is being placed on “going green” there are many more jobs coming available to help create zero waste, conserve water, develop residential solar energy and more.

What Types of Jobs are Available?

Some specific job types that you might be able to get into that very directly mean to enhance the environment include bike delivery services, gas station jobs related to biodiesel, green waste composting, landscaping, construction material and debris hauling and reuse.

A few others include:

- Hazardous material clean-up
- Developments for non-toxic household cleaning products
- Expansion of open spaces such as parks, recycling, solar installation
- Printing with non-toxic inks and dyes
- Maintenance and repair for public transit
- Tree cutting and pruning
- Water efficiency and conservation
- Weatherization for homes
- Energy conservation

Many businesses are hopping on the “go green” bandwagon. So this is a good time to begin searching for employment in this area.

Can I Get Involved?

One of the perks of green collar jobs is that many of them offer on-the-job training. So if you’re looking for an environmentally-responsible career change, or post-retirement job that can make you feel good about what you’re doing, many green collar jobs can be easily moved into. Additionally, if you want a mid-to senior-level position, those jobs are available too.

The industry is growing so rapidly that in fact it is predicted that jobs in the energy-efficient industries could grow from the currently estimated 8 million available to as many as 40 million by 2030. If you are interested in finding out where you fit in, you can visit a career consultant who can help you find your way based on your specific skills. You can, for instance, use your human resources background to become a human resources manager at a solar energy company. As the industry grows, the opportunities will be endless.

If your passion falls in line with caring for the environment then green collar work may be right for you. So take your time, explore what’s out there, and seek counseling if necessary. Then enjoy getting paid to make a difference in our world.

Heather Eagar
http://www.articlesbase.com/careers-articles/green-collar-jobs-and-how-you-can-fit-in-697024.html

Flower Gardening Tips

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Flower gardens are simple to install and easy to care for. They do, however, require a basic understanding of the natural conditions of your garden as well as the specific needs of the individual flowers. Different flowers have different requirements. Annuals, for example, live for only one season, require a bit more maintenance than perennials and, since they die after the first hard frost, need be replanted each year. Perennials, on the other hand, flower for a period each year and grow larger each season. They die back to the ground in the winter but reemerge the following spring.

Determine which flowers do well in your climate and research their sun and soil requirements. Some flowers thrive in the sun while other prefer a little shade. Also, though most plants prefer organic, nutrient rich soil, some will do actually do better in well drained sandy soil.

Perennials bloom either early in the spring, during the middle of summer or late in the summer and into autumn. To achieve a constant bloom throughout the season, plant many different species. Iris, bleeding heart and a variety of bulbs are notable early bloomers. Daylily and hosta bloom in the middle of summer while aster and sedum “autumn joy” are perfect for late season color. Annuals bloom continuously from spring right through the fall up until the first frost. A mixture of annuals and perennials in the garden ensures a colorful garden from spring until fall.

Plan a garden which compliments your house and overall landscape. For instance, mixing different heights, colors, and varieties of flowers together in a cottage garden style will give your garden a rustic look which is quite appropriate for a country setting. If you want a more formal feel, consider a rectangular garden with a symmetrical layout.

Planting your annuals and perennials is easy. After you have prepared your garden by tilling the soil and adding some compost and peat moss, arrange your flowers in the new bed according to a design drawn out before hand. Make sure you like the layout and that the plants are adequately spaced. To plant, simply dig a hole about twice the size of the plant’s root system and place the flower in the hole then back fill the hole with the some soil, tamp it down and water. All plants, including perennials and annuals, should be planted at the level of the finish grade of your garden.

In you want a low maintenance flower garden, limit your annuals and plant a variety of perennials. Perennials, though quite adaptable to a number of garden conditions, can benefit from an early spring feeding. Slow release fertilizer is very effective in the flower garden as it provides nutrients over the course of an entire season. Another way to provide nutrients to your flowers is to spread a layer of organic compost on the garden each spring.

Flower gardening is very rewarding. Simply decide what flowers you like, plant them and be sure they receive the proper care. Flower gardening gives people excellent reason to spend some outdoors and test out their green thumb.

anonymous
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/flower-gardening-tips-90094.html