Grow your Own Organic Vegetable Garden

Archive for November, 2009

Grow your Own Organic Vegetable Garden

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

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Here are some of the main features of organic growing:

• Organic growing severely restricts the use of artificial chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

• Instead, organic growers rely on developing a healthy, fertile soil and growing a mixture of crops.

• Genetically modified (GM) crops and ingredients are not allowed under organic standards.

Going organic may mean that you have to make a trade-off between glossy, same same supermarket looks with better tasting crops that aren’t perfect in shape or size, but many gardeners think this is a price worth paying. You’ll be able to grow different crops that are always relatively expensive to buy in supermarkets and at farmers markets and, growing your own vegetables is both fun and rewarding.

Among the many things an organic vegetable garden may offer toward a satisfying experience are fresh air, exercise, sunshine, knowledge, supplemental income, mental therapy, and fresh food, rich in vitamins and minerals, harvested at the best stage of maturity.

You can easily make compost from garden and kitchen waste, although this is a bit more time consuming, you will also make cost savings, because you do not need to buy costly chemical fertilizers and pesticides with organic gardening.

Where animal manures are available, they are probably the best source of fertilizer and organic matter for the organic gardener. Use manure which has been aged for at least 30 days if possible, or composted. I am often out in the road if any horses have gone past gathering the manure for the garden. Its looks a bit odd to the teenagers on the street but the dung is worth it!

If you have space for a few pots, or a small space in the garden or even an allotment, it is a wise decision to grow your own organic vegetable garden. To better care for your health, grow your own organic vegetables -and a few pots is all you need at a minimum.

You we also be contributing to the go local food movement which is flourishing – over 15% of people buy organic food locally and this number continues to rise as the number of farmer’s markets, box schemes, cafes and restaurants serving organic food increase. GuideMeGreen helps you to find locally produced foods which are fresher, healthier and more economical. It cuts down on transport costs and food miles where an average shopping basket can include fruit and vegetables transported from all over the world. Even in the UK or USA food is transported from the farm, to the packing centre, then to distribution centre before arriving at the supermarket to be bought which is then transported by car home!

Davinos Greeno
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/grow-your-own-organic-vegetable-garden-84463.html

Posted in Make Your Own Compost | 10 Comments »

Consider Making a Compost Heap

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

Many people who maintain gardens have a large amount of organic waste, from grass clippings to leaves and dead plants. Unfortunately, many waste money and time having these wastes transported to a landfill. It isn’t just a waste of good compost; it’s a waste of everything that goes into the process of transporting it (the garbage man’s time, the money you pay for the removal, etc). It is truly a travesty.

All this garbage that people are trying to get rid of can be a better supplement for your garden than any fertilizer or chemical. If you properly facilitate the decomposition of all of the garbage, it will alter chemically until it is in such a state that it can be nothing but beneficial nutrition for other plants. Therefore you can turn all the stuff you would have thrown away into top grade fertilizer for your garden.

Usually compost is maintained in a pile somewhere in your backyard. Usually the thought of a compost heap brings disturbing images to ones mind; heaps of rotten garbage emitting a horrid odor. However, if you maintain it correctly you’ll be able to produce great compost without producing an offensive odor. When I first began my compost pile in an effort to improve environmental health, I made several major errors. These included preventing the pile from the oxygen it truly needed, and keeping it to dry. It ended up decomposing in a very non-beneficial way, and producing an odor so foul that I had government agents knocking at my door.

When you are choosing your spot where you will be putting all of these materials, you should aim for a higher square footage. Having a really deep pile of compost is not a good idea, because generally the deeper sections won’t be exposed to anything that is required for the process to work. It is better to spread it all out over a large area. If you have a shed or a tool shack of some sort, it is a possibility to spread it over the roof (with boards to keep it from falling off, of course). I have seen this done several times, and it helps keep the pile out of the way while still maintaining a large square footage.

A compost heap can consist of any organic garbage from your yard, garden or kitchen. This includes leaves, grass, any leftover food that won’t be eaten, or newspaper (no more than a fifth of your pile should consist of newspaper, due to it having a harder time composting with the rest of the materials). Usually if you have a barrel devoted to storing all of these things, it will fill up within several weeks. It is quite easy to obtain compost, but the hard part truly comes in getting it to compost.

After you have begun to get a large assortment of materials in your compost heap, you should moisten the whole pile. This encourages the process of composting. Also chop every element of the pile into the smallest pieces possible. As the materials start to compress and meld together as they decompose, frequently head outside and aerate the pile. You can use a shovel to mix it all up, or an aeration tool to poke dozens of tiny holes into it. Doing this will increase the oxygen flow to each part of the pile, and oxygen is required for any decomposition to take place.

If maintaining a compost pile sounds like something that would interest you, start considering the different placement options. The hardest part about maintaining a pile is choosing a spot that provides enough square footage without intruding on the rest of your yard or garden. While usually you can prevent the horrible odors that most people associate with compost heaps, it’s still not a pleasant thing to have to look at whenever you go for a walk in your garden.

Josiah Smart
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/consider-making-a-compost-heap-746842.html

Posted in Kitchen Compost | No Comments »

Consider Making a Compost Heap

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

Josiah Smart
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/consider-making-a-compost-heap-746842.html

Posted in How to Compost | No Comments »

How to Build an Eco-friendly Earthbag Roundhouse

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

Of all the various shapes of houses, roundhouses have always been one of my favorite. Like domes, they create maximum floor space with minimal wall material, but roundhouses are simpler and easier to build since the walls are vertical. And because roundhouses are protected by a roof, they are suited to a wider range of climates than domes. Combining the efficiencies of roundhouses with the benefits of earthbag building enables virtually everyone to afford their own home.

Earthbag building is a simple construction method using bags filled with soil, gravel or insulation, such as volcanic rock or perlite. The bags are stacked in level courses and tamped solid. This method of building has evolved from the military’s use of sandbags for constructing blast and bullet proof structures. Modern-day builders are constructing beautiful homes, shops, offices and schools throughout the world as word spreads of its many benefits.

Earthbag buildings are sustainable, low-cost (literally dirt-cheap) and simple to build. Even unskilled workers can learn each step of construction in a few moments simply by watching. Properly designed earthbag buildings are resistant to mold, fire, hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes, floods, insects and rodents. In addition, earthbags can be used to build almost any building shape in any price range with just a few basic tools.

The roundhouse building method outlined here is suitable for structures up to about 30’ in diameter without requiring additional support. Earth-berming – banking earth against the walls and sloping it away from the building – will improve energy efficiency and help reinforce the structure.

The first step is to clear and prepare the building site. Remove topsoil and save for landscaping or gardening. Drive a center stake and outline the perimeter using a length of twine or chain. Assuming the use of an interior plumbing wall (2”x6” is the easiest), bury your plumbing before proceeding. Then dig a trench a little wider than the walls and fill with gravel, rocks and/or broken concrete up to about 6” below grade. At this point, start placing gravel-filled earthbags – double bagged for added strength – for the first few courses (at least 6” above any risk of moisture). Add one or two strands of barbed wire between each course for tensile strength and to help hold bags together. In cold climates, fill bags with scoria, pumice or other suitable insulating material to improve energy performance.

Once your walls are safely above any threat of moisture, you can begin placing bags of earth. Use a mix of about 25% clayey soil to 75% sandy soil. Fill each bag about ¾ full and then tuck the bag end underneath itself. Tamp the bags solid once a course is complete. Check for level, add barbed wire and repeat. Install door and window forms made of scrap wood, barrels, tires, etc. Arched or flat openings are both possible. Form and pour a reinforced concrete bond beam on top of the wall.

The easiest way to build a round roof is to radiate peeled wood poles or joists from a center pole. For the price of a $15 firewood permit, all the wood can be gathered sustainably from overcrowded forests. In cold climates, add ceiling poles and roof poles with space between for insulation. Another method is to build a stone, adobe or compressed earth block (CEB) column in the center. Add an adjoining wood stove or rocket stove for low-cost, efficient heating.

Alternative roof ideas: One good option is a green roof design like Tony Wrench, author/builder of That Roundhouse (http://www.thatroundhouse.info). His reciprocal roof design does not require a center pole or column. Roof poles interlock and are self-supporting. Straw bales, which serve as roof insulation, are protected by a waterproof membrane. The final roof of native grasses and wildflowers is stunning. Another way to avoid a center support is to run steel cable through radiating rafters and secure with turnbuckles. Annealed nylon in the holes allows the cable to slide and adjust into position.

Finishing details: Earth floors (insulated with 12” of scoria) and earth plaster are both highly recommended. Earth is low-cost (or free), nontoxic, easy to work with and inhibits the growth of mold. The added thermal mass helps stabilize indoor temperatures. Sealed earth floors can last for centuries, thereby saving a small fortune on wood, carpet and linoleum. With wide roof overhangs of about 36”, earth plaster is the way to go in all but the most extreme climates. And because clay comes in many different colors, your walls and floors can be as colorful as you like. (Tip: Do a Google Image search for “earth plaster.”)

Other options to consider: Incorporate passive solar design to improve daylighting and space heating. Extra windows on the south and southeast, and fewer windows elsewhere will increase energy efficiency. Add a composting toilet, greywater oasis, organic garden and built-in furniture. Use deep window sills for growing plants.

Owen Geiger
http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/how-to-build-an-ecofriendly-earthbag-roundhouse-747063.html

Posted in Composting | No Comments »

Gardening With Perennials

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

Perennials are those flowers which reliably bloom year after year. After growing throughout the spring and summer, perennials die back to the ground each winter only to reemerge again the following spring. With their vibrant colors and interesting textures, they’re at the heart of most gardens. Perennials are easy to grow and need little maintenance. There are, however, a few guidelines to follow which will help your garden flourish.

After the spring clean up, cut back to the ground any stalks which were left standing over the winter. Survey the perennial bed early in the spring and take note of what you have. See if there are any empty spaces which could benefit from additional flowers. Ideally, the perennial bed should provide colorful blooms all season long. To compliment the perennials, plant some annuals in the garden for added color. Annuals will bloom from spring until the first frost.

In the spring, apply a slow release garden fertilizer. This will help the perennials grow vigorously throughout the entire season. Cultivating some compost into the garden each year will improve soil consistency and keep the soil nutrient rich.

Throughout the summer there is the need for deadheading. This is the process of snipping off flowers which have gone by. It keeps the garden looking great all season. Deadheading annuals is even more important as it encourages a continuous bloom from spring to fall. Cultivate the garden soil a few times during the growing season. It will keep weeds from encroaching on the garden and will allows water and nutrients to penetrate the soil surface.

Taller plants, especially those with large flowers, will require staking. After rain shower, the flowers are weighed down and the plant’s stalk will often bend or break.

Late in the fall, perennials begin to fade as their foliage starts to die back to the ground. Their roots are still alive but the above ground part of the plant is done for the season. Though cutting back the plants can be done in the spring, it’s generally done in the fall for aesthetic reasons. There are some perennials, such as black eyed Susan, which, if left standing, add character to the fall and winter landscape.

Dividing perennials is an easy and free way to increase your plant stock. After a few years of growth, perennials may begin to outgrow their allotted space. Dividing overgrown perennials solve the problem crowding in the garden. Dividing also gives you new plants to add to your garden. To divide a perennial dig the plant out of the garden preserving as much of the root system as possible. Then divide the perennial in half with a shovel or edger. Replace the perennial back in the ground and back fill with a mix of compost and existing soil. Fall is the best time of year to divide perennials.

Perennials are adaptable to a variety of landscape conditions so analyze the conditions of your own garden to determine what will work best. Also, have a plan or list in hand before you head out to the greenhouse. Perennials need little maintenance once they are established and provide years of care free gardening enjoyment

anonymous
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/gardening-with-perennials-88193.html

Posted in Compost Plan | 11 Comments »

Raccoon Control

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

RACCOONS

Identification and Description Exceptionally intelligent and clever animals, raccoons are mischievous and will eat just about anything. Also frequently called a coon, they are sturdy, solid mammals about 2 to 3 feet in length, weighing in at between 10 and 30 pounds (though there are documented incidences of raccoons getting as big as 40 or 50 pounds). Marked with a prominent furry, ringed tail and a mask over the eyes, raccoons are usually salt-and-pepper gray, however there are some that are yellow.

Excluding higher elevations in the mountainous regions and some areas in the Southwest, raccoons are prevalent all over the US. They prefer to live in hardwood forests, especially those near a body of water, but raccoons are adaptable and can also be found in human living areas such as orchards, gardens, suburban neighborhoods, and farms. They create dens and nests in hollow trees, barns, haystacks, abandoned buildings and attics.

Since they are predominantly active at night, raccoons can often be present for a fairly long time in an area before they are detected. Without proper understanding of their feeding tendencies and damage possibilities, raccoon control can be very difficult.

Damage Potential

Raccoons become a major problem and cause destruction and damage in several ways. While they can be undetected for periods of time because they are nocturnal, raccoons can be pretty easy to identify by their tracks. Raccoon damage can be extensive, and if it isn’t dealt with, can be pricey. As compared to the damage that they will do to a house or building, damage done to gardens is rather minor, even though they’re known to scrounge for worms and grubs by actually rolling up freshly laid sod.

When they are looking for nesting sites for their babies, female raccoons sometimes rip off roof top ventilators and shingles to look for shelter in an crawl space or attic. Raccoons look for shelter and refuge in buildings and houses especially in attics or chimneys and in areas where compost piles can be raided for food. In urban and suburban regions, raccoons adapt to make chimneys suitable substitutes for customary hollow trees. When the animals begin using specific areas in an attic or building as a bathroom, the ceiling below will hold a repugnant smell and become soiled.

Identified recently as a substantial rabies host in wildlife, reports of diseased animals have gone up dramatically over the past 30 years. A lot of the report increase is related directly to an increase in raccoon populations in eastern United States.

Feeding Tendencies and Diet

Because raccoons are omnivorous, they acclimate to places where food is readily available. When the animals start coming into human territory, they are attracted to areas where there’s garbage or pet food left outside. They’ve been known to eat birds and chickens when that food is handy, and also their eggs. In garden and farming regions, raccoons will eat crops such as watermelon, corn, backyard nuts, and vegetables.

When raccoon populations become a problem where you live, it is essential that professionals are located that are practiced and educated in safely removing them. Take a look at http://www.birdandanimalcontrol.com for help to find a company that can handle your animal control problem and raccoon removal in a timely and humanitarian way.

Claire Call
http://www.articlesbase.com/environment-articles/raccoon-control-120759.html

Posted in Building Compost | 3 Comments »

Can-O-Worms

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Can-O-Worms

With our user-friendly “”Can-O-Worms“” composting system, a team of redworms digest kitchen waste into worm castings; an organic, nutrient-rich garden amendment. The perforated stacking trays allow the worms to separate from their castings automatically, making it very easy for the gardener to harvest the resulting “”worm castings.”" The trays rotate so that there is always one available for garbage while the others compost. The handy spigot allows you to capture the “”worm tea”" – a rich liquid amendment your plants will love. Sturdy, odorless and pest-resistant, this earth-friendly composting system is made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic. Designed to be used indoors or out in warmer climates, it comes with complete instructions. Ideal composting temperature is 60F to 80F. Australia. Worms not included. Find composting worms online at www.findworms.com. This item ships directly from the manufacturer. Please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery. Item can not be expedited. See Shipping Information for more details. 29″” High 20″” Deep

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Posted in Worm Compost | No Comments »

Exaco Trading Co. Replacement Carbon Filters for the ECO Kitchen Compost Collector

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Exaco Trading Co. Replacement Carbon Filters for the ECO Kitchen Compost Collector

Making your own compost starts in the kitchen by collecting all your organic waste and adding it to your outdoor composter. As much as 30% of household waste can be composted and should not be sent into a landfill and using the Kitchen Compost Collector is a most practical way to collect all your organic waste. This Collector includes a Carbon Filter reducing significantly any organic smells (for the sensitive nose). Replace filter every 3 months. Carbon replacement filterFor use with the ECO 2000Recommended replacement every 3 to 4 monthsPack of 3MFG Brand Name : Exaco Trading Co.MFG Model # : ECO 2500MFG Part # : ECO 2500Specifications: Assembled Depth (In Inches) : 3.5 In. Assembled Height (In Inches) : .25 In. Assembled Weight (In LBS) : .1 Assembled Width (In Inches) : 3.5 In. Color / Finish : Black

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Kitchen Compost Crock

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Kitchen Compost Crock

Put your kitchen scraps for the compost pile in an attractive countertop kitchen composting crock. The Kitchen Compost Crock has a fully glazed interior that won’t stain or absorb odor and holds up to one gallon of kitchen scraps. An activated carbon filter in the lid prevents odors. With a removable stainless steel handle. Dishwasher safe. Includes one filter. Filters last 3 months. White ceramic crock measures 10″”H x 7″” diameter; Stainless steel crock measures 11″”H x 8″” diameter. China. Keep your Kitchen Compost Crock smelling fresh with carbon replacement filters . The activated carbon prevents odors. Held in the lid, the filter lasts up to three months. Sold in sets of 2, 6 or 12. China.

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Posted in Kitchen Compost | No Comments »